MotoMan

Clean is Cool !!
Tecleo aquí para la versión Española

Dear Mototune USA Fan:
I recommend the same break in method for any engine. Streetbike, racebike...even cars! The problem with a using this method on the street with an R1 is that you'll have to exceed the speed limit a lot and do plenty of "excessive acceleration" ... 

That's the reason I recommend using a dyno to do it.

While you probably never read about this method in the bike magazines, my idea isn't new. I've been doing it for 15 years, and it's the only way to get maximum ring seal every time !
~ MotoMan

This picture was taken seconds after the cases were split. As you can see, airborne dust has already begun to accumulate on the oily crankshaft. 

Oil Attracts Dirt and Dust...

Dirt and Dust creates:

Friction

And...

...it's all about friction !!! 

About 6 years ago I bought a computer program that estimated power. You could input the actual horsepower reading that you got from a dyno, then it would calculate the power gains from changes to the camshafts, or carburetors etc. It was kind of like having a dyno in your computer, and the predictions were very accurate. I never really found it to be of much use though, because it would always recommend things that made an engine peakier, and that's the wrong thing to do on a motorcycle engine. 

The one thing it was good for, was that it made me realize just how much power gets lost to friction.  

An engine I was developing at the time, had dynoed at 114 rear wheel horsepower. To my amazement, the program calculated that the engine actually had 160 hp at the "piston".... 

In other words...
...the motor was losing 46 hp to friction !!

The first project is to clean all your tools. If you've been using them to wrench at the racetrack or on a dirty bike, you've got to clean them before you use them on an engine.

If possible, keep your engine building tools separate from your track wrenching tools. Otherwise clean them after each weekend outdoors.

Now that your tools are clean, what about the motor ?

Before you remove the carburetors from the motor, be sure to clean all the dirt and sand from the area near the intake ports. Then immediately cover the ports with duct tape to keep dirt from getting into them. 

All it takes is one grain of sand 
to ruin the valve seal !

This R6 engine is typical. Look at all the chain lube crud and dirt. 

All that dirt will get on your clean tools. And as soon as the cases are split it will fall into the motor...

Don't even think about removing a bolt until the engine is 100% clean !!

Never Contaminate Your "Tool"...

Even the "cleaned" outside bolts will always have a little dirt on them, which will contaminate your tool and transfer dirt to the inside (oily) bolts. 

Clean your tool after you use it on an "outside" bolt, before you use it on an inside bolt.

*********************************
Keep on reading my friends !!

Once the clean parts are removed by your clean tools, the way to keep everything clean is to bag the "outside" bolts. Then set all the clean parts in a freshly washed rubbermaid container.

Always keep the lid on when the parts are being stored.

 I use the rubbermaid container lid to catch the excess oil, and to keep the engine on a clean surface at all times.

MotoMan Says:



" Clean Enough To Eat Cheerios 
Out of the Oil Pan !! "

Cheerios !